AS WE MOVE into October and autumn, the leaves start to clog your gutters, the rains have returned (burn ban has been lifted!) and planting season starts in earnest for many botanical wonders!
So then Andrew, how does one go about planting a tree or various ornamentals?
Truly, there is an “art of the hole.” So, let’s go through the procedure here.
First and foremost, give considerable thought to where you dig. How big is this plant going to get in 10, 20 or 30 years? Consider this: The No. 1 problem in most people’s landscape is the fact that the plant is placed in the wrong spot for the nature of its growth and full height and width at its maturity.
Next, you mark the spot, walk around and see how it will be viewed from the road, patio, backyard, your home’s windows (sitting at the table or slouched on the sofa) and consider where your lawn mowing pattern might have you drive around the plant. How will you move about the specific area when you do chores in the yard now that a new plant is there? This can be where the future branches rub up against the window or poke an eye out when you walk by the patio in 10 years. It could be that growth will crowd under the eaves or prevent painting the house in years to come. Such a tree can even block a view that you need down the driveway or where you normally sit to view the mountains. Think all “angles of viewing” here.
You also want to consider any future projects, such as gazebos, vegetable gardens, patios or additions onto the house — do not block out future aspirations. I also think of how leaves may deposit high into your gutters or how falling leaves may blow into the pond and cause another maintenance issue, such as skimming leaves off the pond with a net.
As far as digging goes: Make it big enough, preferably two to 21/2 times the size of the current root ball, then chop up the bottom of the hole well and mix in the new soil and old soil well, filling up to the desired level wanted for placing in the new plant.
The final height of the root ball should be slightly higher than surrounding soil to adjust for some settling of the plant and to predict future mulch layers that will protect soil around it come spring time.
Now comes a very important but often overlooked step, which is mixing well the fertilizer (lime, if needed for deciduous trees and plants) in the bottom of the planting pit and then filling up the empty hole with water. Saturating the hole and surrounding soil as the water perks out guarantees no dry lower spots.
While the water disappears, it is a good time to take a lunch break or cruise around the yard with pruners, giving the hole time to drain out.
Next, you roll in the plant, clean it up. Remove all dead leaves, stems and dead branches. Prune away any suckers, crossover branches or errant growth, and shape it to perfection. Then, rough up the root ball if the plant is root-bound or cut away nylon twine or any other ties that might girdle the plant as it expands and grows roots.
Now place the plant in the muddy hole, spinning around for perfect viewing and fill the hole halfway up with soil, sprinkle fertilizer in and fill the hole up again with water.
Do a little bit of cleanup work with extra tools and remnants of the nursery pot while that water settles down, then fill the remaining hole with soil and fertilize on the soil surface.
Guess what’s next? Yes, water like crazy, cover with several inches of mulch, and water that in too.
If it is a very large plant, you want to stake it.
If you follow these steps, your plant will not feel as though it has been left in a hole, but rather that it has been placed carefully in plant heaven, a carefully chosen corner of our beautiful North Olympic Peninsula and your backyard.
Now keep those leaves out of your gutters, rake and turn them into your compost piles, and get ready for some good old-fashioned rainfall.
But above all — stay well all!
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Andrew May is a freelance writer and ornamental horticulturist who dreams of having Clallam and Jefferson counties nationally recognized as “Flower Peninsula USA.” Send him questions c/o Peninsula Daily News, P.O. Box 1330, Port Angeles, WA 98362, or email news@peninsuladailynews.com (subject line: Andrew May).
