OK, YOU FOLKS are lucky today. Finally, after all these months of harping on you to pinch and prune your plants, we will learn how to use some of those plant tips for asexual reproduction.
Although there are numerous variation as to roots, tubers, division, etc, let’s dive into Propagation 101.
Propagation is the method one uses to increase or reproduce more of the parent. It is the process that can reproduce identical offspring of the parent (cloning) even when the seed will reproduce different plants (results of hybrid breeding).
Propagation is the means that one can take the most desirable characteristics of a plant and through well-maintained conditions, foster the perpetuation of those exact characteristics.
How is it relevant? You have 14 beautiful red geraniums in a front planter bed. But one of those 14 has a little larger flower, maybe it is slightly greener, more compact or more prolific than the others. Propagating this plant will reproduce the slight improvements and thus all the new rooting cuttings will possess the selected, reliable traits of the parent.
The ornamental horticultural world is built around hybrids that will not reproduce or “come true” from seed. This is extremely important to know and keep in mind.
Most marigolds, zinnias, garden mums, weeping ash, columnar maples — even strawberries, beans, peas or roses for that matter — will naturally reproduce back to the species to which they are related (crossbred with). Then again many, through the breeding process (triploids), will not naturally reproduce at all.
Asexual reproduction makes these matters moot.
Another key point is that propagation is one of the easiest and surely one of the most economical ways to increase your plant collection. And true gardeners know it is a surefire way to get that plant you’ve seen growing in someone else’s garden.
When I’ve been asked if I take cuttings as I travel and visit other ornamental displays; my only answer is: “You are not a true gardener if you don’t.”
Then finally, before we push on to the methods and procedures to use in cutting propagation, let us also keep in mind that soon the changing weather will deteriorate or kill some of your prized garden plants. Late August and early September are a prime time to take advantage of the remaining good growing weather, and to reproduce your cherished or extremely expensive plants. Then all winter you can foster these cuttings into beautiful spring plants, already mature and ready to bloom profusely.
There are numerous methods of propagation, which include: Softwood cuttings, hardwood cuttings, leaf cuttings, leaf bud cuttings, division, petiole cuttings, root cuttings, grafting, layering and herbaceous cuttings.
Let’s focus on herbaceous cuttings, which will be the easiest of the methods and the one most applicable to your flowering yard.
Herbaceous cuttings are taken from non-woody plants. They include many houseplants, annuals, perennials, herbs and vegetables.
Sanitation is the name of the game here. To begin, your soil should be sterile and best when it contains no actual soil. Natural dirt inherently contains many types of bacteria and diseases that cause stem rot or damp off. Fully artificial mixes eliminates this potential risk.
Another gardening method is to bake soil at temperatures around 400 degrees for a couple of hours to sterilize it (that makes it extremely difficult to moisten).
Next your trays, pots, and containers should be cleaned and dipped for 20 minutes or more in a bleach solution and then rinsed extremely well. Your knife or scissors also should be cleaned and dipped in bleach solution. And your cuttings placed in a clean bag or tray.
In the greenhouse where I grew up, to pick up a dropped cutting off the floor and “stick it” was an act warranting reprimand then dismissal.
Since we are dealing with bringing about new life, cleanliness is next to godliness.
Before we get to the actual taking of the cutting, it is time to give you the three crucial elements of propagating cuttings.
Big Three
• Bottom heat. No Greenhouse would root herbaceous cuttings without some kind of bottom heat. For the homeowner, a waterbed heater pad (flat rubber mat) is best. It is waterproof and has the temperature control and probe. This is your easiest, accessible solution to the first required element.
• Rooting compound. This is the secret to successful, high rates of survivability in your cuttings. (show me a greenhouse or nursery not using rooting hormones, and I will show you one going out of business).
• Moisture and plenty of it. When combined with bottom heat and hormones, moisture is the completion of the dynamic triad. Your cuttings must be kept moist. This constant moisture is crucial for the first two weeks. Then slowly taper off as roots develop.
So here we go. Fill the tray with soil and water extremely well. Place it on your mat at a 72 to 78 degree setting.
Now let’s go get those big, red geraniums. Snap off cleanly or cut a 3½ to 4½ inch tip from a green and lush branch. Strip off the bottom leaves so there is one to two inches of clean stem. Then remove any other large leaves so only two or four leaves remain. Old large leaves will use energy and cause disease problems later.
Next, remove any flower or buds, no matter how small. Flowers will only take energy for root development.
Bundle several of these cuttings and insert their stems into the rooting powder and shake vigorously. Insert into your soil mixture this powdered, lead clean stem a full one to two inches deep.
With a very light spray, wet thoroughly and try to moisten numerous times a day for a few weeks. Some folks surround their trays with plastic to hold in moisture. Although this can work well there is a great increase in chance of rot due to high humidity, 70 to 80 percent coverage can be a solution.
Now, produce some of your best garden plants before cold autumn winds befall them.
And remember… stay well all!
________
Andrew May is a freelance writer and ornamental horticulturist who dreams of having Clallam and Jefferson counties nationally recognized as “Flower Peninsula USA.” Send him questions c/o Peninsula Daily News, P.O. Box 1330, Port Angeles, WA 98362, or email news@peninsuladailynews.com (subject line: Andrew May).
